August 31, 2019

Cashmere Myths vs. Facts

Myth # 1 Cashmere is from Italy

Most of the world’s cashmere comes from China and Mongolia. While Italy is known for manufacturing garments from cashmere, the raw material comes from cashmere goats, predominantly from China and Mongolia, where the harsh winters provide the correct climate for the goats to grow long, fine cashmere fibers. Cashmere goats can also be found in other areas such as New Zealand, Australia, India, Iran, Turkey, and Afghanistan, though their output is much smaller.

Myth # 2 Cashmere comes from rabbits

Cashmere comes exclusively from cashmere goats. Angora, another fine soft fiber, comes from angora rabbits.

Myth # 3 Animals are harmed in obtaining cashmere

Cashmere is a natural fiber that is collected from cashmere goats when they naturally shed their winter coat. In traditional hand-combing, the fine undercoat is gently combed out during the spring shedding season, rather than shearing the goat's entire coat. The quality and welfare of the animals depend on how they are raised and how the fiber is collected.

Responsible sourcing matters because producing beautiful cashmere starts with taking good care of the animals that provide it.

Myth # 4 Grade A cashmere is the best

There is no single, globally regulated grading system that officially certifies cashmere as Grade A, B or C. However, these terms are widely used in the cashmere industry to describe differences in fiber quality. Grade A generally refers to finer, longer cashmere fibers. Fineness is measured in microns, while fiber length is measured by staple length. In general, finer fibers feel softer, while longer fibers tend to be more durable and less prone to pilling.

The exact specifications used to define Grade A can vary, so the grade alone doesn't tell you everything about a cashmere product.

Myth # 5 Good quality cashmere doesn’t pill

Some pilling is normal, especially when cashmere is new. Pilling occurs when loose fiber ends work their way out of the yarn and tangle together through friction. Longer fibers generally reduce pilling because there are fewer loose ends, but even high-quality cashmere can pill in high-friction areas. The good news is that initial pilling often decreases with use and can be gently removed with a cashmere comb.

Myth # 6 Cashmere should be soft and fluffy

Cashmere gets softer with wear. If it is incredibly soft when you first purchase it, the cashmere may have been over-washed or treated with chemicals to make it feel that way. This can reduce the life of the garment. Rub your hand across the cashmere; if your fingers feel slippery afterward, it’s been treated.

The best quality cashmere is made with longer fibers, producing less fluff and getting softer with time.

Myth # 7 Cashmere is dry clean only

You don’t have to dry clean your cashmere; you can hand wash it instead. You also don’t need to use a special cashmere shampoo (though you can). Baby shampoo is gentle enough to use on your cashmere garments. While you can also machine-wash on the gentle or wool cycle in some instances, we do not recommend this.

Hand washing is best for maintaining the shape of the cashmere item and ensuring longevity.

Myth # 8 Cashmere is too warm for summer

Cashmere can be worn in all seasons. It is hygroscopic, meaning it is naturally breathable. It can keep you cool when it’s hot and warm when it’s not, and it also wicks away moisture from your body. Cashmere comes in different plies (1-ply, 2-ply, 4-ply, etc.), which are the number of strands twisted together to make the yarn.

The higher the ply, the warmer the item will be, so for summer choose 1-ply and 2-ply items.

Myth # 9 Not cleaning your cashmere items will make them last longer

Cashmere doesn't need to be washed after every wear, but avoiding washing altogether isn't the answer either. Dirt, oils and perspiration can build up in the fibers over time and may affect the feel and longevity of the garment.

The key is gentle care. Wash cashmere only when it needs it, follow the care instructions for the particular piece, and avoid excessive heat, agitation and wringing. Between washes, simply air your cashmere out and store it folded rather than hanging.

Myth # 10 Ply is an indication of quality

Ply is the number of strands twisted together to make the cashmere yarn. 2-ply cashmere, where two strands of yarn are twisted together, is stronger than 1-ply and as a result is less likely to develop holes.

Higher plies such as 4-ply, add extra weight and warmth but do not indicate additional quality.

Myth #11 Cashmere is expensive just because it is a luxury fiber

Cashmere costs more than many other natural fibers for several reasons. A cashmere goat produces only a relatively small amount of usable fine undercoat each year, and the fiber must be collected, sorted and dehaired to separate the valuable soft fibers from coarser hairs. Fine, longer fibers are also more limited and can be more difficult to process. The finished product matters, too. Spinning, knitting or weaving, finishing and quality control all contribute to the final cost.

So while cashmere is often associated with luxury, its price reflects the scarcity and processing of the fiber as well as the craftsmanship that goes into turning it into a finished product.

Myth # 12 You cannot iron cashmere

Cashmere is delicate, but that doesn't mean it can never be pressed. In most cases, steaming is the gentlest way to release wrinkles and refresh the fabric. If ironing is necessary, use the lowest appropriate temperature and place a clean cloth between the iron and the cashmere to protect the fibers.

Never press cashmere with high heat or leave the iron sitting on the fabric. And when in doubt, follow the care instructions for the specific piece.

Myth # 13 Pashmina is better than cashmere

Pashmina is the name of a textile from India used to make shawls. Pashmina is made from cashmere, traditionally from cashmere goats from India, Pakistan, and Nepal. It is not necessarily rarer or softer than other cashmere items. The term Pashmina is also widely misused now to include shawls made from a variety of fabrics.